Molise doesn't exist

Molise - a small region of Italy snuggled against a 35km stretch of the east coast. Bordered to the south-east by Puglia, to the south-west by Campania, to the north west by Lazio and to the north by Abruzzo.

It is the second smallest region in Italy.

It's capital is Campobasso.

Never heard of it? You're not alone. And let's face it, Molise only became a recognised independent region in 1963. That's not a typo by the way - that's 1963, just 60 or so years ago.

When you step foot into Molise it is like entering CS Lewis' Narnia - another land entirely.

Santuario di Castelpetroso

But, like all of Italy, it has an extraordinary history. The Samnite tribes were the first known inhabitants - from at least 400BC but probably much earlier. These tribes had a complex societal structure and religion. They believed that magical chants could influence reality, that magical amulets could protect people, and that augurs could see the future.

The Samnite made alliances and fought with other Samnite tribes, Vestini tribes, Romans, Phyrrus and Hanibal. Exciting times indeed. Eventually the Romans conquered and the tribes were integrated into Roman society. But the tribal traditions, artefacts and blood lines live on and Samnite culture is alive and well in more remote parts of Italy - especially Molise.

Altilia Saepinum: Photo by Roger Ulrich

The Lombards took over the area for a few hundred years, followed by the Normans around the 10th and 11th centuries here. A kind of peace settles and a Norman feudal lord is granted a county, one Mouisuer Raoul de Moulins. So the county is called la Contada di Molise - and Molise is born!

Waiting patiently in the wings until the 14th Centrury the Spanish Bourbons sweep in. They divvy up the Contada into smaller parcels so Molise disappears. Even up to unification in 1861 - Molise doesn't exist - it is part of Abruzzi e Molise (locally referred to as just Abruzzi).

But Molise has the town of Agnone - and here the bells for all great churches and houses are cast. It is the oldest bell foundry in Italy and it keeps the most complete collection of sacred bronze including the Bell of the Year 1000.

The bell foundry in Agnone. Photo courtesy of www.caseificiodinucci.it

So while it took until 1963 for the region to be recognised it is undeniably unique. There is no airport, no main highways, little mobile coverage. It is as if a dream and, like Narnia, it can appear only for those that believe and are willing to take steps into the unknown with a curious mind.